Eating my Way Through Aix en Provence

When you live here, eating out just sort of becomes part of everyday life.

I don’t plan it. I go out for coffee, stay for lunch, meet someone again a few days later and end up back in the same place. After a while, you starts to get a feel for what’s actually good and what isn’t.

That said, even after two years, I’m still regularly surprised—either by somewhere new that’s opened, or by a place I’ve somehow never tried. And there are a lot of places to try!

There’s also this idea that you can sit anywhere here and eat well, but that’s not really true. Quite a few places rely more on the setting than the food. You can sit somewhere that looks perfect—a nice square, a full terrace—and the food is just… fine. Nothing wrong with it, but nothing you’d go back for.

However, there are some places that are actually worth it. Here is my list for you.

Coffee

If you want a quick coffee in Aix, you’re really spoiled for choice. There are so many places to pick from, but a few are noticeably better than the rest.

At the very end of the Cours Mirabeau, near Rue Thiers, you’ll find “Colde”. They have a wide selection of coffees and a wicked range of cakes—I’d recommend the lemon and poppy seed. If you’re choosing somewhere for both coffee and something sweet, this is probably the one I’d go for.

 “La Brûlerie Richelme” is another place I like, although it’s more focused purely on the coffee. Here, you can drink coffee from all over the world whilst enjoying the bustling marketplace environment in Aix. They also grind their own coffee mixes and have a great selection of teas.

“Café Caumont” is something a bit special. It is very much about the setting, with its French garden and ornately decorated interiors, but it’s still a good place to sit for coffee. The cakes are superb too.

Brunch

I guess brunch wasn’t something I paid much attention to at first, but if you like to eat before lunch, there are a couple of places that are really worth it.

“Maison Nosh” is a hidden gem, which boasts a big brunch menu and some lovely coffee options.

“Deïa” does a visually pleasing, tasty brunch in a relaxing setting—simple, fresh, nothing overdone. It’s new, and people have already found it.

Lunch

For lunch, I tend to go to “Le Ramus” quite a lot. It’s a traditional menu, nothing overcomplicated, but consistently good. It also has a great wine list, which helps—it’s easy to sit there longer than you planned.

“Le Vieux Tonneau” is a bit different, but equally worth knowing. It’s a small, fairly unassuming wine bar right in the centre that serves tapas. The menu is written up on a blackboard and changes regularly depending on what’s in season, with a clear focus on local and regional producers. 

Another good lunch option is “Tita”. This family-owned restaurant specializes in Mediterranean and Oriental street food. Perfect for a quick falafel, kefta or shawarma. Also, very family-friendly.

Dinner

“La Rotonde” is one I always like to go back to. Even if the prices are a bit steep, eating on their terrasseallows you to have a prime viewing spot of the passers-by in Aix centre and if you decide to eat inside, the beautiful chandelier and the elegant atmosphere is super cozy. I recommend the pizza, which is properly done (by a proper Italian Pizzaiolo)—in a wood-burning oven. 

Another place I adore is “Café Le Grillon”. It’s on Cours Mirabeau and is always super busy and slightly chaotic. If you sit inside, you cannot help but be swept away by the hustle and bustle of the waiters, who, incredibly, manage to keep everyone happy. This is where you will find classic French bistro food that really hits the spot. The prices are very reasonable and the dining room upstairs is truly magnificent. You know what you’re getting, and it’s reliable and quick.

Luckily, I had the pleasure of trying the food in “La Méduse” the other day with a group of friends. This cozy wine bar is extremely popular with locals and tourists alike, not only because of its food, but also because of its amazing natural wines. Just be sure to reserve a table in advance, as places get booked up pretty  quickly.

Une petite faim

Some of the best things aren’t full meals. In French, if you say  “J’ai une petite faim”, it literally means “I’m feeling peckish”.

If you are feeling peckish in Aix, I can definitetly recommend a quick slice of pizza (I love the thick crust pizzas) from “Manlio’s”, a cream bun from “Pâtisserie Béchard” and an ice cream from “La Verrerie Givrée” amongst others.

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So to sum it up, the food in Aix-en-Provence can be truly excellent—though, like anywhere, some places shine a little brighter than others. That’s all part of the charm: discovering those spots that get it just right, whether it’s a perfectly simple plate or something a little more refined. I hope this small, carefully tried-and-tested list helps you sidestep the disappointments and savour some of the genuinely wonderful places this beautiful town has to offer.